Country Close Up

Wandering Feet

SPANISH MERCADOS

Photos of the market merchandise

 

 

THIS LITTLE PIG GOES TO MARKET

When I arrive in a new location, one of the first stops is the food market. It is a window into the lives, and stomachs, of the local people. Bangkok's fried creepy crawlies resemble their live siblings so much that they still appear to creep and crawl.

In the Ukraine piles of pig fat are on offer, a tasty treat that is slathered on bread.

It never ceases to amaze me how many types of corn there are in the market places of South America. Black, white and purple kernels lie alongside the traditional yellow variety, some as large as a ten-cent coin.

Now I am in Spain, where I am going to investigate the market merchandise from both Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel and Barcelona's La Boqueria.

Let the tapas-tasting and the sangria-sipping begin!

 

MADRID vs. BARCELONA

Similar to the Melbourne-Sydney rivalry, there has long been a comparison between the two most prominent cities in Spain.

As Spain's cultural, political and financial capital Madrid is seen as more classically 'Spanish.' The Gaudi-touched quirky seaside wonder of Barcelona is more touristic.

As with all things in Spain the competition really comes down to cuisine, to a certain extent, and to the football teams.

 

THE CUISINE

In terms of cuisine, you can get your hands on whatever your heart desires in Madrid with the capital offering samples of the large variety of Spanish cuisines. It is a city of tapas bar hopping.

Barcelona, the capital of the Catalunya region of Northern Spain has its own gastronomy. Its fare is more likely to revolve around a sit down meal.

The Catalonians have their own language, making dish descriptions even more challenging for the Spanish-inept like myself.

 

MERCADO DE SAN MIGUEL, MADRID

The market is housed in a beautiful building built at the turn of the 20th century. Situated in the heart of Madrid its glass walls allow walkers-by to feast their eyes on a myriad of tapas. It is a strong-willed and insane man that does not surrender to the temptation of the Mercado de San Miguel. 

The large hall is filled with individual stalls, each specialising in their own stylish seasonal tapas treats. The cost of one tapa begins at a mere euro.

Olive sellers are next to the masters of bacalao, who prepare the salted cod in countless appetising ways. The croquette specialist regularly cooks up new flavours of her deep fried goods and we purchase a delicious glass of rose to keep us company as we meander about the market and decide what to delve into.

At 'lunch-o-clock', which in Spain runs for the majority of daylight hours, the market place is filled with suits. Groups of them sit around marble-topped tables piled high with emptied prawn and oyster shells.

Although some Russian and Japanese dishes are for sale, it is best to stick with the Spanish specialities. We are tempted by the grilled pork with apple and the chorizo and blood sausage stew which is slopped into a mini bread roll.

As it often does in Spain, the intended light snack turns into a feast. We are deceived by the single mouthful servings. Several plates and glasses later we roll out onto the street.

 

BARCELONA'S LA BOQUERIA

A tourist haven, and therefore also one for pickpockets, we enter the packed marked through its ornate metal gate with handbag in tight grasp. La Boqueria is said to have been born as an open-air travelling market in the 1700's, finally settling on Barcelona's Ramblas.

The market sells more fresh produce as opposed to the prepared morcels for sale in Madrid, reflecting their different dining styles.

We are welcomed by brightly coloured tropical fruit and tempting juice combinations. Exotic dragon fruit and lychees have traveled nearly as far as us to be here.

We venture further into the maze. We pass pyramids of carefully balanced eggs to get to the bacalao sellers. The leather like salt-preserved fish fillets glow frighteningly flourescently under blue light. In the seafood section crabs and lobsters crawl along beds of ice eager to escape their impending doom.

Onward to the meat area where rabbits and pheasants hang from hooks, still dressed in their winter coats. Alongside them chickens are being de-headed and gutter before our eyes. Out appetite diminishes.

Hopeful restauranteurs attempt to lure us in on the border of the market place. Perhaps tomorrow we will return...and order the vegetarian paella.

 

 

 

 


 

ARCHIVE: Click to download monthly recipes.

November 2009, Country Close Up 1: The Land of Laos

December 2009, Country Close Up 2: The Magic of Morocco

January 2010, Country Close Up 3: The Colour of Mexico

February 2010, Country Close Up 4: Portuguese Eats 

March 2010, Country Close Up 5: Indonesian Delights

April/May 2010, Country Close Up 6: An Indian Thali

June/July 2010, Country Close Up 7: A Spanish Fiesta

August 2010, Country Close Up 8: Italian Indulgence

September 2010, Country Close Up 9: The Spice of Vietnam

October 2010, Country Close Up 10: A Gastronomic Tour of South West France


Feel free to throw any comments or suggestions my way. Comment on the photos or reach me by email. 

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Danya Bilinsky

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